Engine overheating for any reason is serious and can cause irreparable damage, as you know, especially if it was one of those cheap engines found in the marketplace. If you have a customer whose car is constantly overheating and they haven’t figured out why, there are a few common causes that you can check for. These range from the obvious to the not so obvious, but the following list will help you troubleshoot the situation and get your customer back on the road.

1. Low Coolant

This is an obvious one, but check the coolant first. If it’s low, then the engine will certainly overheat. Low coolant isn’t necessarily the underlying root problem, and it can be just a symptom of a larger condition. However, start by filling up the radiator and coolant reservoir and then go from there.

2. Thermostat

One of the more common causes of overheating is a stuck thermostat. If the thermostat won’t open, then the coolant can’t cycle through the entire system. Conversely, if the thermostat won’t close, you’ll see other issues, though overheating isn’t one of them.

3. Leaks in the System

If you notice that the coolant is low, the first step after topping it off should be to check for coolant leaks. These can range from minor pinhole leaks that are very difficult to spot to major leaks that cause immediate puddles on the floor (the customer should have noticed puddles of coolant, but never put it past them not to see them).

4. Cooling Fan Problems

Engine coolant alone can’t handle the heat generated by engine operation. The cooling fan (or fans) on the vehicle also play a role here. There are two primary problems that crop up with cooling fans. The fan clutch could be failing, or there could be a faulty fan motor. Both of these are easy fixes.

5. Water Pump

The vehicle’s water pump is responsible for moving coolant throughout the system. If it’s failing or leaking, it needs to be replaced. This is usually not as simple as it sounds, as most water pumps are difficult to get to and will require that you have the car on a lift, and at least one wheel off so you can get to the pump.

6. Faulty Radiator

If the radiator is clogged with debris or buildup, this will reduce the cooling system’s efficiency and lead to overheating. Check for damaged fins and buildup within the radiator (including oil buildup, which can indicate a blown head gasket).

These are some of the more common problems that cause engine overheating, though there are many others. Start here and work your way through the list.

Killing an engine is never fun, particularly if it happens while you’re on the road. Your first instinct might be to get a replacement engine any way possible, but that’s not necessarily the right approach. There are several different engine replacement options out there, and they’re not all the same. What might be right for one owner might not be right for you. Here are three important considerations that you need to make before you buy an engine replacement.

Are You Keeping the Car Long Term?

One of the first considerations is how long you intend to keep your car. If you’re going to keep it for as long as possible, then you’ll need to look into a remanufactured engine. This is the most expensive replacement option, but also the longest lasting and most reliable on the market. Remanufactured engines are also sold as “new” and crate engines, so don’t get confused by marketing language.

Will You Be Selling Soon?

If you’ll be selling your car soon, then you might decide that the expense of a remanufactured engine isn’t justified. If this sounds like your situation, you should look into a rebuilt engine or perhaps even a used engine. A lot will hinge on just how much you think you can get for your vehicle on the open market. If you can get enough to justify the cost, then a rebuilt engine will be ideal. If you’re just looking to get it in drivable condition, a used engine could be the ideal solution for you. Rebuilt engines are less expensive than remanufactured ones, and offer better reliability than used engines. However, used engines are definitely the cheapest of the three.

Are You Trading In Soon?

If you’ll be trading in your vehicle to a dealer when you buy a new car, then you really don’t need to worry about drivability that much. Dealerships will never give you fair market value for your trade-in, and as long as it’s drivable, you should be given a decent trade in amount. In these instances, going with a used or salvage engine is going to be your best choice. These are the most affordable options on the market, but they’re not the most reliable or long-lived. Both are technically used, but salvage engines are taken from junked or wrecked vehicles, and sometimes from those that have been sold for scrap (salvage vehicles no longer deemed drivable).

It’s important that you choose an engine replacement option that fits your budget, as well as your goals where the vehicle is concerned. If you need something reliable that will continue to be driven for years to come, then there’s no substitute for a remanufactured engine. The same thing applies if you’ll be handing the vehicle down to a teen driver in your household. However, if you don’t need to worry about it holding up for years of use, then you can consider one of the less expensive options.

Usually, you see engine starting problems when the engine is cold, or was previously a used engine for sale that sat in storage. Low battery charge and other issues often make cold starts slow, hesitating and difficult. However, if your customer is having problems starting a hot engine, there are a few common culprits you can consider. Also, don’t worry about checking the charging/starting system, as the problem most likely lies in other areas (although a full charging system test is never a bad thing).

Relay Issues – One of the most common reasons for a car to struggle with starting when hot is a dying fuel pump relay. The easiest test for this is to use either a jumper to replace the fuel pump relay, or a known-good relay that you already have on hand. Just pop in the jumper/relay and start the car. If it fires right up when warm (don’t let the engine cool), you know the relay has started to fail. A good sign that the relay is the problem is if the car cranks right up when the engine is cold (or has cooled down for about an hour after running).

Vapor Lock – Vapor lock can be caused by quite a few different things, though the most common include leaking injectors, a failing fuel pressure regulator and a failed fuel pump check valve. The issue here is that fuel that remains in the rails after engine shut down is turned into vapor, creating a pressure void in the system. When you go to crank the engine, it can take quite some time for the fuel pump to make up for the void, creating slow starting situations. A leak down test will have to be performed on the fuel system to determine if vapor lock is the issue.

Computer Problems – Vehicle DME computers are generally reliable, but sometimes there can be issues. The most common issue is failing solder joints within the computer. Tap the computer while cranking the car. If it starts right up while tapping (and the car’s warm), then you have found the most likely issue.

None of these issues will cause problems requiring engine replacement. However, they can be time consuming to diagnose. Start with the fuel pump relay, as this is the most common issue, and then move down the list as you eliminate potential issues that might be causing the car not to start (or struggle to start) when hot.

When engine trouble strikes your customers, the most common issues will keep it from turning over (bad battery, dead starter, etc.). However, if the car engine will turn over but not fire (start), there are a few things to check. Generally, if there’s a lack of fire, it’s because of one of two problems. Either a) there is a lack of fuel getting to the engine, or b) there’s no spark to ignite the fuel.

Test for No Fuel

The most common issue here is a lack of fuel, which can be due to a number of different reasons, many of which can strengthen your ability to find cheap engines. Perhaps the fuel pump died, or maybe there’s a problem with clogged injectors or damaged fuel rails. The fuel filter might be dirty and clogged up. To test the system, you’ll need a pressure gauge. Hook it up to the fuel rail and then try to start the engine. Run the gauge into the cabin with you, or have someone else crank the car while you watch the gauge under the hood.

No Fire

If you have fuel, but no fire, you’ll need a spark tester. For safety, take out the fuel pump fuse; otherwise, it will run during testing, which can be dangerous. Pop off a spark plug wire and connect the tester in series (between the wire and the spark plug). Now, crank the engine. You should see spark within the tester while the engine turns over. If there’s no spark, you need to move up the line and test the other components to determine what’s gone wrong and where.

No fire isn’t generally a cause for engine replacement – you should be able to determine the issue without having to resort to installing a crate or rebuilt engine. Ignition system troubleshooting can be tricky, but it’s generally an easier fix than you might think.

Usually, oil leaks are pretty easy to spot thanks to the telltale traces they leave on the garage floor, parking lots and your shop floor, a telltale sign when shopping for used cars and cheap engines. However, there are times when you might encounter a customer’s whose car has low oil but no puddles are being left behind after being parked.

Put It in The Air

This should be common sense, but it bears mentioning. If your customer’s talking about having low oil and you verify that this condition is accurate, put that car on a lift and get it in the air. If you’re running a small shop (or you’re new to the mechanic world and haven’t been able to invest in a vehicle lift yet), this is harder to do. You need to get fully underneath the car. Many leaks are tough to spot if you’re not right under them. You also need to make sure you have plenty of light to see what’s going on.

If a car isn’t leaving puddles behind but is low on oil, chances are very good that the oil is being blown back from the engine during driving. Look at the underside of the car for oil blowing back from the oil pain gasket or from the rear main seal. In some instances, the oil can be blown back in a thin layer that only coats the bottom of the car, rather than dripping down to the floor.

Burning

While it’s possible there’s evidence of an oil leak under the car but not dripping to the floor, the most common issue here is burning oil. All engines burn oil to a certain extent, and most manufacturers state that the loss of a quart or less of oil over the course of 3,000 miles or so is “normal”. However, if there’s more than that lost, you’ll need to look into why the engine is burning so much. Piston rings and seals are the most common issues – these can be replaced during an engine rebuild, but if the engine is particularly old or high mileage, replacing it with a salvage engine or a remanufactured engine might be the better choice for your customer.

Verify the Situation Leading to the Loss

It’s also important to understand that if the customer is doing their own oil changes, they might be the real reason for oil loss (or perceived loss). For instance, if they’re changing the oil and then checking the level before doing a pressure test (when the oil filter gets filled), they’ll see what appears to be low oil afterward. Double check what the customer is doing before anything else.

If you have already decided that you are going to buy a remanufactured engine, then there are a number of factors you will still need to consider in making your choice going forward. You’ll have to decide whom to buy the remanufactured engine from, whether or not to go with a stock engine and what your budget is for the repairs.

Knowing that you are opting for a remanufactured engine, one can assume that you plan on keeping the vehicle for the foreseeable future.

Price Options

Obviously this is an important part of any major decision, as you are trying to weigh out the quality and the cost of each option in order to make the most cost-effective choice. There may be different remanufacturers with engines available so you will have to look for the one that has the best quality for the cost.

Warranty Options

This is a big part of evaluating the price, quality and cost effectiveness of each option. The companies that have the most confidence in their remanufactured engines will typically be willing to give you the best warranties, which can help you to frame the decision a little bit. In addition, there may be extended warranties that you need to decide about. This will tend to come down to your willingness to gamble a little bit and the cost of the extended warranty or add-on coverage.

Should You Replace the Engine?

If you bought a vehicle that has numerous engine options, you may have numerous options to replace your engine. This will depend on the motor mounts and whether there are differences in that regard, but you may be able to select a more powerful engine or one that gets better fuel economy, so if this is something that you are interested in you should ask your mechanic before you make the decision so that he or she can lay out the options for you while you make a decision.

You may even be able to get an aftermarket engine or an engine from a more powerful vehicle in the same manufacturer’s line of cars, depending on what you drive and what is available. These options are sometimes appealing for sports cars or muscle cars.

Solicit Advice From Trusted Expert

Now that you know what factors you should consider, you may have some questions to ask. The best way to go is to find a trusted mechanic or auto repair expert and get their advice regarding remanufactured engine options. As with any decision, you’ll have to weigh all of the factors and arrive at the choice that makes the most sense for you.

As vehicles and their engines age, there are a number of symptoms that may take place. Some are less serious than others, but they can be tough to distinguish for the novice driver.  Here are some guidelines to help you discern major problems from minor ones, and to help your determine whether or not your need to replace your car engine.

Smoke is bad.

If you see smoke coming from your engine or exhaust pipes, then you need to get the car checked out and you should probably be prepared for bad news. This is often a sign of a blown head gasket, which is an expensive repair and may lead to a new engine all together. Whether the engine is smoking directly through the hood of the car or out the tailpipe, it’s bad news. You should still differentiate, as it may help the mechanic diagnose the problem, but the difference doesn’t make it much less important to get it checked out.

Jerking is bad.

If your vehicle is jerking around when you begin to accelerate, that is a sign that you are having some major problems either in the engine, the transmission or the electronics. It could be something to do with the timing of the vehicle being off as a result of an electrical problem that is impacting the firing order of the cylinders, or it could be that one is not firing properly and that is throwing the timing off. It could also mean transmission problems, and if your car is jerking all over the place, chances are that it is not something minor that is causing it.

Stalling is bad.

If your car is frequently stalling out, that is obviously a bad sign as well, though you will want to keep an eye on when it happens and see if you can find any common themes. For example, some cars are more likely to stall out in the rain because they are susceptible to certain electrical problems that can rear their ugly heads when the rain picks up and wires are exposed to water.

Obviously you do not want to get stuck in a situation where you cannot restart your vehicle and are stuck, but if it keeps restarting then you may be able to get away with driving it for a little while longer while you try to diagnose the problem. On the other hand, if your stalling is combined with another symptom, you may not want to waste a single moment before getting it checked out.

General Approach

Those are a few examples, but there are obviously a number of symptoms that can pop up in a vehicle. As a good rule of thumb, if you cannot figure out where a noise, vibration or other disturbance is coming from, you should get it checked out by a mechanic. It’s usually better in the long run to spend a little bit of money checking out a problem to try to catch it early than to wait until it is serious enough to become a major repair or require a replacement engin

While synthetic oil has been on the market for a long time now, there is still a lot of confusion about it and how it compares with synthetic oil. As a professional, you need to be prepared to answer the questions your customers will have about the situation, which type of oil is best for their needs and more. Synthetic oil vs conventional oil, here are some of the questions you might be faced with:

Synthetic Oil vs Conventional Oil

1. Can I Use Synthetic Oil in My High Mileage Car?

Yes, you can use synthetic oil in vehicles with higher mileage. There are even formulations designed specifically for well-traveled vehicles. However, if there are oil leaks, this might be an expensive way to go, as synthetic oil is higher priced than conventional oil. It’s better to invest in getting the leaks fixed first.

2. Will Synthetic Oil Damage My Engine’s Gaskets?

No, synthetic oil will not damage an engine’s gaskets. In very early formulations, some types of synthetic oils made certain gaskets swell up, which could lead to leaks, but that’s no longer the case thanks to modern additives that control seal swell.

3. If I Use Synthetic Oil, Can I Go Back to Conventional Oil?

Yes, you can switch from synthetic to conventional oil, and vice versa. Doing so will not cause any damage to the engine, the gaskets or any other component, so you never have to worry about buying used car engines for sale.

4. Can I Use Synthetic Oil in an Engine with Roller Rockers?

Yes, you can use synthetic oil in virtually any automotive engine. The myth that synthetic oil lubricates “too” much is false. It has the same tractive coefficient as conventional oil, and can be used in just as many engines.

5. Can I Extend My Oil Life by Switching to Synthetic Oil?

Yes and no – some synthetics are formulated for extended life, while others are not. It really depends on the type of oil and the oil’s manufacturer. If you’re not sure what type of synthetic oil was used in an engine, it’s best to change it every 3 months or 3,000 miles.

6. Can I Mix Synthetic Oil and Conventional Oil?

You can mix them if necessary, but it’s best to use the same type of oil at all times. Some engines actually call for a synthetic blend, such as 5W20, which is a mixture of both synthetic and conventional engine oils.

These are a few of the common questions you’ll be asked regarding synthetic oil vs conventional oil. Synthetic oil is safe, good for the vehicle and can offer extended oil life in some instances.

If you are having some minor car problems and you fear the worst, here are a few signs to keep an eye out for in order to figure out whether you are likely going to need to replace your engine in the not too distant future.

 Leaking Oil

If you are beginning to see oil puddles in your driveway when you pull away, this is not a good sign for the health of your engine. First, you need to be concerned that you may be running low on oil. Second, the fact that a leak exists means something is wrong. Without enough oil lubricating your engine, one problem can lead to another if you do not keep it in check. Make sure you check your oil levels as soon as possible and add some if needed, then try to get a mechanic to take a look at the cause.

Leaking Coolant

This is a lot like when you are leaking oil. You need to make sure you do not run out of coolant and will want to spend some money to have someone locate and repair the leak. Hopefully it’s only a minor issue, but again if you let it go it could become serious.

Unusual Sounds

If you have begun to hear any unusual sounds from your engine under normal driving conditions, then you may need to get it checked out sooner rather than later to avoid letting the damage get any worse. Often if you can catch a problem early, you can fix it a lot cheaper than if you wait around, the common starting point of used engines for sale.

Loss of Power

If you are finding that your car is not as fast or powerful as it once was, you may be dealing with some mechanical problems that are slowing you down and which you should get checked out. This is more likely to be a major problem than some of the other items on the list, as it is more likely to mean that a cylinder is down, for example.

Delayed Response

Finally, if it is taking an extra half-second or even longer for your vehicle’s throttle to respond to your foot on the pedal, then you may have engine problems as well and it is something you will want to monitor. This doesn’t always mean major problems, as you’ll sometimes find it on cars that are just aging in general.

If there is anything else unusual or suspicious about the way your car is responding, you should get it checked out as quickly as possible in hopes of avoiding any major problems leading to a necessary engine replacement by catching it early.

If you know how to turn a wrench and have a vehicle engine guide and wiring schematic, your first thought on engine failure might be to replace it yourself. However, there’s a lot to be gained by using an experienced mechanic here, rather than going it alone. In fact, even with all the information, diagrams and schematics at your disposal, there are still five things that an experienced mechanic knows about engine replacement that you probably don’t.

Which Parts to Remove

When most consumers think “engine replacement”, they imagine dropping the old engine and replacing it with a new one. That’s not really how it works. Even crate engines arrive missing some specific parts, including the headers, valve covers and other pieces. In most instances, these have to be removed from the old, dead engine and installed on the new engine, a similar situation to rebuilt transmissions for sale or used transmissions.

Engine Installation Errors

Experienced mechanics have been around the block more than a time or two. A significant number of errors can happen during the engine removal and installation procedure, from failure to prime to failure to remove all the needed components from the old engine. An experienced mechanic knows the most common errors and how to avoid them.

Bleeding the Coolant System

Bleeding the cooling system in an engine installation requires two different steps. An experienced mechanic knows this, and knows exactly when to add coolant, when to bleed the system (and how to bleed the system as well). Failure to bleed the system correctly can result in locking up the new engine, or causing other serious damage before you even get to drive it.

Likelihood of Finding Specific Options

Replacement engines are available in several different formats, including remanufactured, rebuilt and used. Used is the most affordable, while remanufactured is the most expensive. An experienced mechanic knows what the chances are of finding a used or rebuilt engine that fits your vehicle in the local area. He also knows how long it will take to order a remanufactured engine (the mechanic also knows that a remanufactured engine is the most cost effective choice in the long run, and will often advise against used or rebuilt engines if you intend to keep your vehicle for a long period).

The Best Remanufacturer

There are numerous companies that offer remanufactured and rebuilt engines. An experienced mechanic knows which companies are worth your time and which should be avoided. A good mechanic will also know which companies offer affordable rates on the highest quality engine replacement options.

In addition to these five things, there are dozens of other important things an experienced mechanic knows about engine replacement. Before you decide that going it alone is the right option, consider working with an expert mechanic. It won’t be free, but the time, hassle and headaches you save (not to mention the potential damage to the new engine you avoid) will more than make up for that cost. Find a reputable, experienced mechanic who knows your make and model well.

The modern automobile is a unique combination of electrical and mechanical systems all controlled by a computer. The vehicle’s ECM monitors performance, fuel/air mix and an incredibly long list of other things. If you fail to update the factory data in the ECM after the engine swap (before cranking the engine for the first time), you’re making a big mistake. It’s also called an ECU or PCM, but it amounts to the same thing, and it’s an important aspect of new engine installation.

What You Should Know about the ECM (Engine Control Module)

The ECM is responsible for controlling the engine, and it does this by using data programmed into it by the manufacturer and a host of different sensors in the engine and exhaust (oxygen sensor, camshaft position sensor, etc.). The problem here is that the engine isn’t the one it left the factory with, so some of the data is now inaccurate.

To compensate for the slight differences between the replacement engine and the stock engine, you’ll need to let the ECM “learn” the specs for the new engine. To do this, you’ll need to erase the adaptive memory for the unit, which isn’t as difficult as it might seem (the exact process varies from one vehicle type to another, though, so make sure you’re using the right method).

Once you’ve reset the adaptive memory, you can crank the engine and allow it to store the new data for the replacement engine once it reaches normal operating temperature. Generally, the first 50 warm-up cycles are accompanied by data collection. When looking for cheap engines, you always want to make sure all the components are in working order, which can be verified once a connection is made to a diagnostic computer.

Some ECMs are programmable by the mechanic through the OBDII connection. However, these are in the minority, and chances are good that the vehicle you’re working on is not equipped with one that accepts individual user-based input. Most programmable ECMs are aftermarket units, not OEM equipment. OEM units can be programmed to an extent by using an aftermarket computer with the right tables and data, though.

Alternatively, you can have the ECM “flashed” at an automaker-specific dealership. Dealers have higher-grade OBDII interface equipment and software with brand-specific software that allows them to tweak the data in the ECM directly through a handheld computer. Some of these systems are available for aftermarket shops, but be aware that some data on the ECM is proprietary and cannot be accessed by non-branded systems. This is important to remember during new engine installation.

Most of the time, you’ll be reusing the old radiator with the new engine. If the original radiator is in good shape, there’s nothing wrong with this. However, if there are problems with the old radiator, you should replace it during the engine installation process.

Engine Installation & Blocked/Worn Out Radiators

The radiator’s job is to cool the antifreeze as it cycles through the engine. As the antifreeze moves through the engine, it absorbs heat and is then sent back to the radiator where the series of fins (with the help of the cooling fan) cools the antifreeze down. It’s then sent back into the engine to do it all again. That’s what happens in a good radiator, anyway, not so much in what you will find in cheap engines and their radiators. However, there’s always the chance that the old radiator isn’t up to snuff.

Heat kills engines, period. Without a fully functional, known good radiator, you’re only setting the customer up for another dead engine. In fact, radiator problems might have been responsible for dooming the original engine in the car. During your diagnostic process, a full evaluation of the radiator is necessary to determine if it’s worth reusing or if you should install a new one.

Checking a radiator for blockages is relatively simple. The “hand test” can be good as a rule of thumb. Warm the engine up to operating temperature, and then turn the car off. Feel the fins on the radiator (but not the top for safety). The radiator’s surface should be the same warm temperature. If there are noticeable cool/cold spots, there’s a blockage in the way.

Another way to test radiator operation is to remove the cap (with a cold engine) and then let it run. Wait for the thermostat to open and the cooling fans to kick on. Using a flashlight, check to see if there is any flow within the coolant. If there is none, or there is only minimal movement in the liquid, there’s a blockage (these tests must be performed on the OLD engine, not the replacement engine).

Age is another issue here. If you’ve got a high mileage car, or one that’s old and it still has the factory radiator, replacing it might be a good idea even if there aren’t any blockages compromising operation right now.

Finally, if the radiator has been used with water or a mostly water mix, it’s a good idea to go ahead and replace it. Rust and corrosion in the radiator can lead to overheating, killing the new engine. It’s always better to be safe than sorry in this area with engine installations.

A wide range of parts will transfer to the new engine (parts, not accessories), such as the oil pan and intake manifold. Ensuring that you follow the right steps from the beginning will make sure that these parts don’t pose a threat to the new engine. This chapter covers two of the most common errors with new engine installation – dirt and grime, and failure to double-check your work after an engine installation. Here’s what you need to know.

BEFORE YOU TRANSFER

Once you pull the parts from the old engine, they MUST be cleaned thoroughly, especially if you ever buy any cheap engines on the marketplace. The oil pan, valve covers, intake and any other part that will be reused must be completely clean before installing it on the new engine. In general, this will involve several steps, including:

Remove the part from the old engine.

A visual inspection of the old part – Look for grime and carbon buildup, as well as gasket material and any damage to the part that might compromise performance on the new engine.

Thorough cleaning of the old part – Parts like the oil pan, intake and valve covers should be soaked in a chemical bath to loosen and remove dirt, grime and carbon, and then thoroughly cleaned with high pressure water, followed by air to dry it and remove any remaining dirt.

Another visual inspection of the donor part. Check for any material that was not removed during the cleaning process. If any material remains, remove it and re-inspect.

Install the donor part on the new engine. Make sure you do not reuse gaskets. Only new gaskets should be used on the replacement engine. If caulk or silicone must be used, ensure that it is automotive engine grade.

AFTER YOUR TRANSFER

Once you’ve installed the new parts and everything is good and tight, it’s tempting to think that your job is done. It’s not, and if you walk away from it now, you could cause serious damage to the engine or create a problem that the customer will have to deal with down the line.

We’re talking about double-checking your work here, and that’s easier to do on a part-by-part basis. For instance, once you’ve installed the oil pan and the oil pan gasket, you’ll tighten the bolts that secure the pan to the engine. You’ll then torque the bolts to their specified setting. Don’t stop there, though. Once you’re “done”, go back and double-check/re-torque all the bolts one more time. Often, you’ll find that one or two isn’t as snug as it should be.

You might also consider going back over all the donor parts after you’ve run the engine for the first time and everything’s heated up to normal operating temperature. Metal expands with heat, and any bolts that aren’t as tight as they should be will show up now. Even if it means triple checking your work, going back over everything one final time is highly recommended after any engine installation.

Radiator Disasters

Most engine accessories will transfer from the old engine to the replacement engine. It’s not particularly cost-effective to buy new accessories when the old ones work perfectly fine (and you won’t find new engines with those accessories anyway, so you’ll have to source them separately). However, it’s important that you install those accessories correctly in order during engine installation to avoid damaging the new engine.

Inspect First

The first thing you do should be to inspect all of the accessories that will transfer to the new engine. This should actually be done before ordering the new engine so that if you need a new part that won’t be included with the replacement engine, you can have everything shipped and on hand at the same time when you’re ready to replace the engine. When looking at engines for sale, shop around and survey your mechanics to see if they have any connections.

Fully inspect all components that will transfer over.

 These accessories include, but are not limited to:

Power steering pump

Alternator

AC compressor and other system components

Radiator and all other cooling system components

Installation of Accessories

Most major accessories rely on the vehicle’s drive belt for power. That includes the AC compressor, the alternator and the power steering pump, certainly. It’s vital that you get each of these accessories into the correct alignment and tightened properly.

One of the most common errors in engine installation is not tightening an accessory correctly. If you’re not careful, you’ll learn about this the hard way – the part will knock or jump when you crank the engine, potentially causing very serious damage to the new engine and/or other components and accessories.

It only takes a little bit of time to ensure that the accessories that transfer over to the new engine are securely tightened and in the proper alignment. If necessary, turn the engine over by hand while keeping an eye on the components and look for any that are loose or knocking. Turning the engine by hand lets you double-check your work without the danger posed by actually operating the engine with a loose accessory. You’ll probably need another set of eyes or hands here – one person can turn the engine over while the other inspects the accessories for play/knocking. Torque the accessory bolts to the proper setting by the automaker’s recommendation.

Once all of the accessories have been installed and tightened, DOUBLE CHECK all of them with the torque wrench and you will avoid this engine installation error.

Installing a new engine in a vehicle doesn’t do much good if it’s not properly mated to the transmission. The transmission provides all the motive power for the vehicle. While the engine creates the power, the transmission sends that energy to the wheels via the axles/driveshaft. One of the most common engine installation errors happens during this process – failing to torque the flywheel.

Failure to Torque the Flywheel

You’ll have to disengage the old engine from the transmission to remove it from the car. When you drop the new engine in, you’ll have to reattach them. It’s a simple enough process, and is nothing more than doing the reverse of what you did to disengage them. However, there’s more that you have to do – you can’t just hand tighten the bolts, and you can’t “hammer down” and tighten them as far as you can, especially when it comes to used transmissions found on craigslist.

Flywheel bolts need the right amount of torque for safe operation. Too little torque and they’ll start to loosen, which is a bad thing that can lead to massive damage to the flywheel (requiring a replacement cost that your shop will have to eat in most cases).

Before you reattach the engine and transmission, make sure the torque converter is properly seated. The nub from the torque converter should be inside the face of the bell housing.

To torque the flywheel bolts properly, you’ll need a few things. First, and most important, you’ll need a torque wrench with the right settings and the correct socket size. Second, you’ll need the torque specs for the vehicle you’re working on. There’s no one-size-fits-all torque setting, and each manufacturer and model has its own specific torque settings. Find the specific ratings for the vehicle in question from the automaker or your shop’s manuals and adjust each bolt to the proper setting. Follow the recommended tightening pattern as well – never tighten bolts in sequence. Most automakers require some version of the star pattern.

NOTE: A word on torque wrenches – you’ll need the right type of torque wrench. Check the torque settings on the wrench and match those to the manufacturer’s requirements for the flywheel bolts. You shouldn’t use lb. ft. when it calls for lb. in. The same rule applies to flex plates used on automatic transmissions.

No, we’re not talking about the almost inescapable scrapes and cuts you’ll get on your fingers and hands during the engine installation process. We’re talking about the car’s cooling system. When you drop the old engine out of the car, the cooling system is going to drain as well. More will escape during the installation process – there’s no escaping this. You’ll have to refill the cooling system once the new engine is in place. However, if you don’t bleed it, you might cause it to overheat and that’s always a bad thing, commonplace among cheap engines for sale and preexisting condition.

Failure to Bleed

Bleeding the cooling system is a two-step process. You’ll do the first step when you install the cooling system components and add coolant to the system. The second step comes when you’re ready to run the engine, not before. As a note, some older engines can be bled using the initial step only, but most newer cars require two steps for the job to be done correctly.

1. Once you’ve installed all the cooling system components (after making sure each is known to be good and has no excessive wear and tear or damage that might compromise the system), open the bleeder valve on the upper radiator hose stub. Once the valve is open, fill the system with coolant until it comes out the bleeder valve. This forces air out of the system. Close the bleeder valve now. *Note: Not all vehicles have a bleeder valve, and the steps to bleeding air from the system vary considerably from one vehicle to another. Generally, you’ll need to make sure that the heater is on full hot.

2. When you’re ready to run the engine (and not before – make sure you’ve completed every step necessary for safe engine operation), take the next step. This is easiest with a specialized cooling system funnel so you can add coolant while watching the level in the funnel, but it can be done without one if necessary.Make sure the coolant reservoir and the radiator are full, and then crank the engine with the heater set to full hot. If you’re using a funnel system, the funnel should be in place now – add coolant to the funnel, enough to fill at least the neck and the very bottom of the funnel. If you’re not, leave the radiator cap off. Run the engine until the cooling fans cycle twice and the thermostat opens (you’ll see the coolant level drop when this happens).You’ll see air bubbles rising from the fluid. This is normal (and the entire point of doing this). Tap or shake the upper radiator hose to release additional pockets of air. As the air is purged from the cooling system, the level of coolant will drop. Top it off. Once the cooling fan/fans have cycled twice and the coolant is full, turn off the engine, tighten the radiator cap and let it cool. After it’s cooled for several hours (or overnight if possible), check the coolant level in the radiator and the reservoir; top off if needed. *Note: The process above is messy, and you will get coolant on the radiator and hoses. Make sure you clean the engine properly (and safely) before finally handing the car off to the customer.

As mentioned, many components can be transferred from the old engine to the new one, including the power steering pump, the AC compressor, alternator, radiator and more. Hoses that are in good condition can also be reused. However when performing an engine installation, make sure that you don’t transfer the old thermostat and water pump. Replace those with new parts; never reuse the old ones and it’s always a good idea to inspect any used car engines for sale, getting the true value.

Engine Installation & The Cooling System

The car’s cooling system is essential. Without a reliable system, the engine will overheat and possibly be destroyed. Make sure you fully inspect the cooling system before installing any of the components on the new engine. Check the following:

Cooling Fans

Cooling Fan Motor

All coolant hoses including the oil cooler hoses if they will be reused

Fan clutch, switches and wiring harness

Fan Relays

If any of these components are not up to par, replace them rather than reusing them. As a note, pay close attention to the wiring, as rodent/pest damage can be a real issue here.

You’ll notice two pretty important components that weren’t on the list of things that need to be inspected. Those are the thermostat and the water pump. Replace these, rather than reusing them. The thermostat is pretty easy to replace – just take out the old one, remove the gasket and replace them with new parts. The water pump should also be replaced rather than reused. Because you’re putting in a new engine, replacing the water pump isn’t the chore it is on an in-vehicle engine.

Why not reuse the old water pump? Besides the fact that it’s a relatively inexpensive part, there are some very good reasons not to reuse the old pump. One of the most important is the potential for the internal rubber components to have damage from high engine temperatures, especially if the engine died because of heat-related troubles.

If heat killed the engine, that water pump isn’t safe. Impeller damage and impellers coming loose from their shafts are yet more reasons to avoid transferring the old water pump. Interior pump surface erosion (normal over time) will also reduce the lifespan of an otherwise good water pump. Finally, water pumps can corrode due to low levels of antifreeze in the coolant mixture.

Again, as with the oil cooler, replace do not reuse. Before installing the new water pump on the replacement engine, make sure the mating surface is completely clean and free of debris. Install the gasket and then the water pump.

We’re all familiar with the process of priming. Small engines like those on most gas-powered weed trimmers need to be primed with fuel before you can crank them. The replacement engine going into your customer’s car needs to be primed as well, but with oil. Failing to prime the engine with oil will cause it to lock up and require yet another replacement engine. Prime the engine, seriously, and avoid this costly engine installation error.

The Priming Process

You might think that it’s best to put the entire engine together and install the drive belts before worrying about priming the engine. That’s wrong. Stop what you’re doing. Before you install the drive belts, the engine’s oil pump needs to be primed, and you need to purge all the air from the oil system, especially when it comes to a used engine for sale.

How do you prime the oil pump and engine, though? The exact method will vary depending on the type of vehicle you’re working on (distributor versus modern ignition, for instance), but here are some of the options available:

1. Use a pressurized system to push clean oil through the entire oiling system. This is the simplest, easiest method available and requires very little physical effort. It does require the purchase of a pressurized system to push the oil, though.

2. For engines with a distributor, use a priming tool (this should be part of an expert mechanic’s setup), and a drill motor. Rotate the oil pump shaft to bring oil to the top of the engine. Make sure the oil reaches the rocker arms.

3. Before you install the drive belt or the sparkplugs, disable the fuel and ignition systems. Now, manually crank the engine in short busts until pressure builds within the oiling system. Once you’ve built up pressure, continue cranking in short bursts for about two minutes to bleed the air out of the oiling system. If you’re unsure that the system is fully purged, crank for an additional two minutes.

4. If you’re following the manual crank method listed above, once you have purged the air from the system, check the oil level and adjust it as needed. Make sure the oil filter is in place before you start this step.

5. Don’t forget to REPLACE the oil cooler. Never reuse the old oil cooler. If you decide to reuse the cooler lines, make sure they’re completely clean and free of any debris.

Quite a few components (as long as they’re known to be good) can be transferred from the defunct engine to the new engine. However, there are a few that cannot be reused, which you need to watch out for when shopping for car engines for sale. One of those is the oil cooler. If the oil cooler is transferred to the new engine, you’re in for a world of hurt and your shop might have to eat the cost of another replacement engine. Replace the oil cooler – never reuse the old one, and avoid this engine installation error.

Why Not Reuse the Oil Cooler?

There’s one single reason that you should never reuse an old oil cooler – contamination. The oil cooler’s job is pretty self-explanatory. It helps disperse built up heat from the engine oil. To do that job, oil must flow through the cooler. Here’s the rub – if the oil is contaminated with metal shavings, antifreeze or other foreign material, that material will remain in the cooler. When you install the cooler on the new engine, the foreign material will contaminate the new engine, causing devastating consequences. Don’t reuse. Replace it.

Installing a new oil cooler is a simple matter on most engines. In most setups, it installs directly behind the oil filter (the filter actually mounts to the cooler). A single bolt holds the cooler in place. Make sure you have a new cooler O-ring, and that it’s lubed properly before installation. You’ll also need to replace the coolant lines running to the oil cooler (they supply coolant to the unit to cycle away heat).

In the long run, the oil cooler is a major part with a minor cost. Never, ever reuse the old one. Replace it and the cooler lines to avoid contaminating the new engine. Follow this guideline and you will avoid this engine installation error very easily.

Every engine is different, but they’re all pretty similar. You’ll need to remove the intake manifold from the old engine before installing it on the new one. This is the perfect time to do some deep cleaning. You’ll need a new gasket in most cases (better safe than sorry), and you should convince your customer to go ahead and buy a new EGR valve and gasket just to be on the safe side. Manifolds with throttle body injection MUST have the TB (throttle body) removed during cleaning. Often times debris will lodge itself immediately under the TB!

Flip the intake manifold over to see where the carbon buildup is. Remove the gasket if it’s stuck to the bottom of the intake. Check out the amount of carbon or debris damage on the intake so you know the likely places where extra effort will be required. If there’s a serious amount of buildup (i.e. you’ve only got a narrow hole in the intake free of carbon), it might be best to just buy a new one.

Some mechanics prefer to use a pressure washer to remove some carbon immediately, and then soak it, while others prefer to soak it immediately. Either way, the point of the job is to remove all the carbon or debris from the intake so that none of it gets sucked into the new engine after installation. Most often, any debris left behind by your original engine failure will be embedded in the carbon. Take the intake and soak it in a chemical bath – depending on your shop’s setup, this might be carb cleaner or a specialty chemical mixture. Regardless, let it soak as long as necessary. For normal amounts of carbon, this might be most of the day, but for severe buildup, let the intake soak overnight in the bath.

After bathing, wash the carbon out using high-pressure water. Once you’ve cleaned out the carbon, visually inspect the intake once more. You’re looking for any carbon or debris deposits that weren’t removed by the water. You should remove these to avoid potential damage to the new engine – blow the intake out thoroughly with high-pressure air. Once all the carbon has been removed (and you’ve THOROUGHLY inspected the intake), it can be installed on the new engine.

If your customer isn’t replacing the EGR valve, you’ll need to clean the carbon out of it as well. They’re not very expensive though, so it’s really better just to bite the bullet and put a new valve on just to save time and headaches.

Take these steps and you’ll ensure to avoid this common engine installation error.